I'm restarting this game after some time away. The first time I played, I remember an option to add or subtract the brutal Dressen counter attack. Where is that option in the latest build found?

its in the file Ja2_Options.INI found in the Data-1.13 folder.

;------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----------------
; Can queen send troops to reinforce Drassen like she says she's going to in the Meanwhile...?
; NOTE: This will make the beginning of the game MUCH HARDER if enabled!

TRIGGER_MASSIVE_ENEMY_COUNTERATTACK_AT_DRASSEN = TRUE

; This enables massive counterattacks in all cities (currently hardcoded), just like in Drassen.
; NOTE: These attacks will be huge. You have been warned.
; 0: no attacks
; 1: counterattacks on all cities possible
; 2: 1 + major offensives depending on game progress