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Tevosion: Is this card silent? especially in idle?
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KingofGnG: The GTX 560 Ti comes from one of the latest iterations of NVIDIA's Fermi architecture (GF114), so it should be as power-efficient as it gets with the right iteration of cooling gear....
Power-efficient, low-power, and silent are three very different concepts. When the poster asks whether the card is silent, answering that it is power-efficient is a waste of bits.

The 560 Ti is very power-efficient. It can grind 7.43 gigaflops per watt. That's the most power-efficient of any current nVidia GPU.

The 560 Ti is not by any standard "low power". It pulls 170 watts TDP, and real-world measurements show it consuming much more than that at full load, especially if you take advantage of its excellent overclockability.

To be silent, you have to move hot air without making noise. That's impossible with forced-air cooling. To be a decent approximation to silent, you have to not generate a lot of heat. That's not what the 560 Ti is for. It generates a shitload of heat, and both it and the case have to be equipped with fans powerful enough (and, inherently, noisy enough) to make that heat go somewhere else.
Post edited November 03, 2011 by cjrgreen
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Navagon: I wouldn't call it 100% silent. But my computer is a hell of a lot quieter than it was with the 260.
The 260s sound like a 2 stroke engine, well most of the fans do anyway:(
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orcishgamer: The 260s sound like a 2 stroke engine, well most of the fans do anyway:(
Bloody big buggers too. I've now managed to get an extra 12cm fan in there that wouldn't fit before - and it's still quieter than it was with the 260.
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Navagon: I wouldn't call it 100% silent. But my computer is a hell of a lot quieter than it was with the 260.
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orcishgamer: The 260s sound like a 2 stroke engine, well most of the fans do anyway:(
Yeah, GPU cooler designs have definitely improved over the past few years. They needed to, because the GPU makers are stuffing teraflops in faster than they're bringing down power consumption. Cooler designs using dual 92mm or 120mm fans have definitely cut down on the "727 spooling up" effect that the older GPUs give when they come under load.
My final choice for the video card is this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127566
(would anybody recommend against this?)

What PSU should I get? I'm lookin for a 500-550 Watt PSU. (Just incase :P).
Btw thanks everybody once again for the help :D!
Post edited November 05, 2011 by Kil3r
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Kil3r: My final choice for the video card is this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127566
(would anybody recommend against this?)

What PSU should I get? I'm lookin for a 500-550 Watt PSU. (Just incase :P).
Btw thanks everybody once again for the help :D!
If you're shopping Newegg, these are the lowest-price 500-550W PSUs I would trust:

Antec NEO ECO 520C

Seasonic S12II 520

XFX Core Edition PRO550W

Antec High Current Gamer Series HCG-520

The above four are actually the same power supply (the Seasonic S12II) with different branding. It's an excellent power supply, the same one Corsair uses for their TX series.

Here's the modular version of the Seasonic S12II, the M12II:

Seasonic M12II 520 Bronze

Here are some others with nice features you may want. They're made by Sirtec, the same OEM that makes power supplies for OCZ:

Rosewill HIVE-550 Rosewill is Newegg's house brand; they've been a laughingstock for years, but have been introducing new and better lines. This one is probably the best bargain on a modular PSU you'll find.

PC Power & Cooling Silencer MkII 500W PC Power & Cooling used to be famous for making the most bulletproof power supplies in the trade. They're not what they used to be, but this one is as quiet as it claims to be. Excellent warranty and support.
Post edited November 05, 2011 by cjrgreen
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Kil3r: My final choice for the video card is this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127566
(would anybody recommend against this?)
My friend has an Radeon HD 6850 (Gigabyte, not MSI, though) and it's fantastic. Maybe not as number-crunchy as the top NVidia crop, but it's stable, cool and quiet.

Regarding the PSUs - I do agree with the above poster that Seasonic S12II is ace - you can check an in-depth review here:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=185
I am gunna need some help D:. My bro and I ended up buying:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair+-+Gaming+Series+600-Watt+ATX+CPU+Power+Supply/1073679.p?id=1218217268656&skuId=1073679&st=corsair&cp=1&lp=1
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair+-+Hydro+Series+H60+120mm+Fan+CPU+Cooler/2664005.p?id=1218343211061&skuId=2664005&st=corsair h70&cp=1&lp=1
and
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/PNY+-+GeForce+GTX+560Ti+1GB+GDDR5+PCI+Express+Overclocked+Graphics+Card/2264373.p?id=1218316934798&skuId=2264373&st=PNY 560ti&cp=1&lp=1
DETAIL 1: Mobo power Problem
We had some difficulty with getting the power to the motherboard (stupid mistake). We couldn't find a 4-pin ATX 12V cord from the power supply. We decided to improvise by plugging in a 6 pin adapter on one of the cords. Big mistake. When we turned on the computer it made a wierd noise and we turned it off quickily(btw we tried this solution twice, we are so stupid). We looked at the adapter and it was melted. To be more specific, it melted while in the 4 pin mother board slot. We found out that the port still worked by plugging in the old power supply. Also, we realized our RETARDED mistake; there is a plug from the powersupply that had the 4 pin connector on it.

DETAIL 2: The Current Problem.
The computer turns on, gos to desktop, and ect. The problem we are having is that the computer turns off(without warning) after a short amount of time. Note: I had a temperture program on and the CPU\Case is not over heating. The temps seemed fine. MAYBE even too cold because we got a open case and the windows open(that melting plastic leaves a bad smell). Temps were around 30-40C. Not including GPU temp, it wasn't on there for some reason :\.

What I ask is:
1. Why is the computer shutting off without warning?
2. Does that melted plastic in the mobo power slot cause a problem?
3. Did we fry the motherboard?
3. How can I fix the shutting off?
Post edited November 06, 2011 by Kil3r
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Kil3r: I am gunna need some help D:. My bro and I ended up buying:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair+-+Gaming+Series+600-Watt+ATX+CPU+Power+Supply/1073679.p?id=1218217268656&skuId=1073679&st=corsair&cp=1&lp=1
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair+-+Hydro+Series+H60+120mm+Fan+CPU+Cooler/2664005.p?id=1218343211061&skuId=2664005&st=corsair h70&cp=1&lp=1
and
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/PNY+-+GeForce+GTX+560Ti+1GB+GDDR5+PCI+Express+Overclocked+Graphics+Card/2264373.p?id=1218316934798&skuId=2264373&st=PNY 560ti&cp=1&lp=1
DETAIL 1: Mobo power Problem
We had some difficulty with getting the power to the motherboard (stupid mistake). We couldn't find a 4-pin ATX 12V cord from the power supply. We decided to improvise by plugging in a 6 pin adapter on one of the cords. Big mistake. When we turned on the computer it made a wierd noise and we turned it off quickily(btw we tried this solution twice, we are so stupid). We looked at the adapter and it was melted. To be more specific, it melted while in the 4 pin mother board slot. We found out that the port still worked by plugging in the old power supply. Also, we realized our RETARDED mistake; there is a plug from the powersupply that had the 4 pin connector on it.

DETAIL 2: The Current Problem.
The computer turns on, gos to desktop, and ect. The problem we are having is that the computer turns off(without warning) after a short amount of time. Note: I had a temperture program on and the CPU\Case is not over heating. The temps seemed fine. MAYBE even too cold because we got a open case and the windows open(that melting plastic leaves a bad smell). Temps were around 30-40C. Not including GPU temp, it wasn't on there for some reason :\.

What I ask is:
1. Why is the computer shutting off without warning?
2. Does that melted plastic in the mobo power slot cause a problem?
3. Did we fry the motherboard?
3. How can I fix the shutting off?
Oh dear, you burned out at least some of the power circuits on the motherboard. You may also have damaged the power supply. It is less likely that you damaged the CPU or the graphics card.

You plugged one of the PCI-Express connectors into the ATX12V header. When you did that, you shorted the power supply's +12V rail to ground, and you grounded power components on the motherboard that should have been at +12V. That power supply puts out enough current to start a fire when you do that.

You now need professional service. Not Geek Squad. A real, professional computer shop that does independent sales and service.
So if I replace the motherboard and buy a new power supply everything should be perfect right?
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Kil3r: So if I replace the motherboard and buy a new power supply everything should be perfect right?
Possibly, but at this point, you do not know whether damage was done to other components. Blindly replacing components may be throwing good money after bad.

I did say in terms I did not think would be overlooked that putting this mess right is a professional job. It's not in the do it yourself category anymore. It needs to be done by somebody who has test equipment, spares on hand, and professional knowledge.
Post edited November 06, 2011 by cjrgreen
No, the latest 11.10 drivers appear to have fixed most problems with games like rage and other that employ open gl as a renderer.

Frankly a 6850/6870 would make for a very good value proposition for an actual gaming card - That or you could go in for a 560 ti for ultra high end. The 6950 would be splendid too

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orcishgamer: ...Screw them.
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Navagon: All true. But in my experience ATI/AMD aren't any better as far as drivers are concerned. As for XP support, they seemed to abandon that as soon as Windows 7 was released.
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Tevosion: Is this card silent? especially in idle?
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Navagon: I wouldn't call it 100% silent. But my computer is a hell of a lot quieter than it was with the 260.
You could get a psu tester to see if the psu is ok. Or if you are a cheap sadist you could get away with a multimeter and a pin layout (I've done this). Any pro computer repair guy worth his salt will have a tester. Your motherboard is most likely fried though.