Posted January 28, 2011

@HampsterStyle
Honestly, I wouldn't even be thinking about my router right now, and I haven't been for the past ten years, if it were merely a software problem. It's showing definite signs of hardware failure. Or rather, hardware "beginning to fail". I've taken as good care as one can for as long as I can, but these things just break down with extended use. It's seen me through five different Windows ( '98, 2000, XP, Vista, and now 7), so I think I'd like to "enshrine" it on a shelf rather than throw it out. I think I'll set it next to my A500.
In case you aren't ready to give up on that trusty workhorse yet, I've rarely if ever seen those actually break. The most common failure on them is the AC to DC converter power brick. As those bricks age, their output voltages/current can stray from their originally designed tolerance. In this case you would see similar behavior as you're describing (actually works but can start to act flakey here and there.) You could try another brick. Those bricks list their output current and voltage so a universal type one that meets those specs should work. This might be all you need and you get off spending probably less than 20 bucks.
Since you mentioned you were just recently aware of the web based interface of routers, here is a tip to help simplify the process of getting into them that works on any NT based OS.
- type "cmd /k ipconfig /all" without the quotes in the search field in start menu and hit enter.
( see pic)
- this brings up your network adapters info. The IP address listed as the "Default Gateway" is always the router's ip address you type in your browser to access the web interface. This will work on any router.
- Normally in a default out-of-the-box config, account name is always admin and the password either blank or admin also.
Post edited January 28, 2011 by HampsterStyle