Well, may I ask whats your WPM?
I found out that click-noise is counterproductive as it prevents feeling the actual activation happening.
But its just me though.

Yeah, never heard about stuck keys on IBM, unlike MX, not questioning reliability of the M. =)

I love the aesthetic of those old typewriters. Function and beauty wrapped into one sturdy package.

My main keyboard is a Matias QuietPro (Mac version). Nice tight response and quiet. From what I've heard it may be similar to a Cherry Brown or Red (just guessing).

I also have a TKL Model M hooked up through an Arduino running tmk firmware so I could convert it to USB (and add macros to replace some missing buttons). The best feel bar none but too loud for when I am doing support calls on the phone.

Kinesis Advantage Pro.

It's a buggy pile of shit with mushy function keys and wasted space in the middle (perfect place for a numpad, as in e.g. the maltron 3d keyboard). The ergonomics are worth it for me, unfortunately.

I swear I'll build my own keyboard one day.

They use Matias switches, which are further development of ALPS switches, after ALPS went out of business. Those are pretty high quality switches.

I am sure you can try to reduce the noise, depending upon its source. If its the noise the switch makes itself, then you can lubricate it with a few drops of any 100% synthetical or teflon oil. Otherwise, if its the noise the key makes when it hits the bottom, you should be able to make an equivalent of O-ring mod, which is a silicone ring (8mm outer, 5mm inner diameter) placed on the stem of the key, which hits switch upper housing at very bottom (instead of key plastic itself), suppressing the hit force.

You shouldn't actually be bottoming out, because its a sign of overpressing the keys - because mechanical switches activate halfway (and tactile versions give some sort of feedback - pressure point and/or "click") down.
But in reality this happens anyway from time to time.

Haha!
Looks like its designed by Salvadore Dali =)
I used all kinds of keyboards, also went through the "miniaturisation desease", but today I love 105 keyboards and don't consider any space used by extra keys or better ergonomics wasted.
Thanks for sharing!

QPAD MK-80. Cherry MX Blue switches and semi-transparent characters with LED's below to have the keys visible in the dark. Awesome. Though I do have one or two Model M's laying around somewhere, I would miss the media and launch menu keys.

Actually the model M are "buckling spring" keys, a lot of the noise comes from the spring whacking the side of the inside of the mechanism, not bottoming out. Slamming the return key, now that's bottoming out (and immensely satisfying). I bet you could put O rings around each of the springs and deaden the noise.

I'm ok with the noise of that puppy in most situations. Just when I'm on the phone and asking a colleague something on chat it can be a little distracting. But the feedback that keyboard gives you is wonderful.

:) That was about Matias, not IBM. Never had hands on M, but I seen a video where they are silenced with a rope in the spring, and that the whole noise comes from the spring. The mod is easily reversible.

Aha. Gotcha. I actually have the QuietPro, which is (as you'd guess) very quiet. I don't think any dampening would make much difference.

The irony is that you could put a row of sensors or switches just above the heads and end up with a better keyboard for playing games and still be able to hammer out a letter afterwards.

So, I managed to break it! What an experience!

Managed to drop a weighty page hole cutter right on one single key and noticed only months later what happened. The key stopped responding on press, responded only when pushed hard down.

Disassembled the thing, unsoldered the switch and, what a surprise, the thinner of the two wires coming from switch and soldered into the PCB was broke off.

Neverless, a drop of rosin on the leftover piece of metal, hot iron and piece of solder restored the connection.

So, mechanical weakest point is not really switches or plastic in them. Mechanics are just as strong as the soldering and switch metal connectors between switches and PCB is. Well, anyway, the switches are between $2 and $5 anyway.