Samsungs HDDs are one of the worst.
Seagate is meh, some are good some are bad.

HGST or WD Black. Better yet to get a SSD to a laptop (Intel SSDs are the way to go), more durable to fallings and bumps (no mechanical head to get fucked up by sudden movements)

Well I don't know what to do now. My HDD surface is ok, and as I suspected, the SMART thing is the damaged one and I can't found a way to fix it. Does anyone how to fix SMART? If it involve change some physical parts, I am totally screwed.

I must keep this HDD as much I can because get a new one isn't by far on my next month’s budget, not even if I want to :(

Meanwhile, I will use it to everyday work, as for casual gaming from time to time.

Try:

Start --> cmd

chkdsk /f /r /x /b

Reboot and let chkdsk do it's thing, which can take up a couple of hours depending on the system.

I don't know how you concluded that - but <i>SMART</i> is probably telling you it's running out of good sectors that were reserved to replace bad ones as they arise. It's probably replaced anough bad ones that there aren't many good ones left to use in the 'reserve'.

Instead of thinking that the SMART is somehow 'bad', you better just get used to the idea you may need to replace that drive - probably soon™.

You may end up kicking yourself if you just ignore it and pretend everything is really okay - when your drive fails and you lose data.

Telling your HD "I can't afford to replace you right now" isn't going to sway it to fail later rather than sooner - so you are just taking your chances ignoring it...

JMO

1. Check SMART, RAW value. By any tools, I prefer original "smartmontools" (also gsmartcontrol), they are basically in almost any GUI tool around here.

Fields that must be zero (RAW value):
Reallocated sector count *
Reallocated event count *
Current pending sector *
Offline scan unrecoverable count **
Spin-up retries ***

* - means amount of reserved shadow sectors depleted and drive has started to reallocate and map them using regular sectors.
** - means sector is heavily damaged so no data could be recovered.
*** - means motor is damaged

a sector is either 512 or 4096 (4K) bytes.

SMART is vendor-specific table to monitor and store values about what is happening with the disc.

2. Take another disc, install an OS on it and make a 1:1 image of damaged disk (dd, ghost or similar) in read-only mode. You can start experiments after this.

3. Connect this image and move data. Some may be corrupted.

Experiments:
you can try and do long surface test in SMART. This will cause drive to find and repair sectors.

you can try and do Victoria or MHDD run. These will show you the sectors which have big or very big delay on read operation. Usually this means remapped(former) or defective(later) sector.

you can try to low-format the disc. Machine must be online while it happens and you must use vendor tools. This will cause it to remap the whole area. This will clean SMART. If damage to data was caused by electromagnetical means (non-physical) then the drive will behave good, otherwise (its physical) it may get worse.

Why it fails:
- Demagnetisation by strong magnetic fields. Can be repaired by low-format, unless its too strong and positioning data was damaged. Drive head fails to position itself then.
- Demagnetisation by faulty disc material. Can't be repaired, zone may increase.
- Demagnetisation of start of the disc. May be fatal for some seagate models, as they store portions of Firmware on platter.
- Bugs in SMART logic. Sometimes it may increase value, which is totally not connected to whats really happening. Happened with Seagate.
- Bugs in Firmware. Can be repaired using newer firmware and low format, unless firmware caused heads to drop whilst flying (below).
- Heads fall on the platter whilst flying over it. Typically happens when you drop or punch harddrive while its on. This causes primal damage and possibly defective heads. Secondary damage is then caused by scratching of flying particles after initial impact.
- Incorrectly sealed drive or drive decompression. HDDs have specific pressure inside. Trying to open them or if they are unsealed causes drive heads not being able to read or position themself correctly.
- Some more

What you can do:
collect data to disk image or to other disc, whilst booting from different disk
replace the disk.

If newer survives the first initial 3 months, it should usually work for 3 years. Do Backups to other disks regularly after checking SMART and doing basic test there. Use filesystems such as Btrfs or Zfs in combination with Backups and redundant RAID types to store data safely. Read vendor forums on your specific model for problems, also when you want to buy it.

You can't fix SMART, smart is nothing, but a report. There is a problem in your hardware and SMART may only indicate of whats going on.

They were bad until around 2013, then they became pretty good whilst Seagate flopped.
I own two HD204UI, they run awesomely for almost two years.
... and also a seagate Barracuda 12. Its over 8 years old I think. Crystal SMART.

Had Samsung around 2010, failed in second month.

Also samsung produces pretty good memory modules and flash sticks (one of the fastest).

Generally speaking, a hard disk is not really a serviceable part. When they act up you don't fix them, you replace them. Any hard disk can break completely at any time, with or without warning, and this one has already given you plenty of warning. Even if it stops acting up for a while, how much would you trust it?

If I was determined to keep working with the drive, one thing that I might try would be to overwrite it with its own data on the block level while the disk is not being in use. Only the broken sectors would have to be overwritten with zero if they can't be read. Done correctly, this would do all the good of erasing the drive with general purpose tools (manufacturers own tools may do better) while simultaneously not being destructive to the data (apart from the broken sectors which can probably be considered lost already).

Unfortunately I don't know of any tools for this kind of thing. I would just boot with a Linux livedvd and use dd, but you would really have to know what you're doing. The smallest mistake could easily cause massive data loss (on wrong drive even), and then you would be no better off than if you had erased the drive in the first place, perhaps worse off.

# blkid
# parted -l

=)

Done, both in Windows 7 and 10. No errors found. Weird.


I concluded that because my laptop BIOS have like 2~3 years telling me that the FAN is damaged and my machine will get overheated so I shall not use it... Well, I have used tons of software that heavily load the CPU and since today, it still well soldered to the main board, as well the other components are.

So, if BIOS isn't right about the FAN "malfunction", why should be SMART?


All those are in zero. I attached the gsmartcontrol in case you want to check it (Change the format to txt. GOG doesn't allow me to upload it otherwise it was a picture :().

Because it's your hdd whose asked for those values, not your BIOS.

And this doesn't matter at all. Something is either wrong, with your cables, your hdd controller or simply its cache.

Since you already checked your cables get rid off your hdd, there's no other way.

Reference.

Check the fields against reference using ID for search.
The drive was kicked a few times whilst in operation, 10034 threshold at (191). It tried to recalibrate 1036 (11) times compared to 1841 (12) start/stop cycles.

It has 10(197) damaged physical surface sectors with 31103 (187) data read errors it couldn't correct via internal checksum. However, it never was successful recovering said errors using internal ECC (195), which may point to very bad cable or attachment - said errors appeared in southbridge controller on your motherboard.

Also there were 3 errors related to cable, which are minor as they were corrected.

The (197) is very serious, if these boost over time, then try full low-level format and watch the drive. If they re-appear, then drive surface is unreliable.

Just read smartmontools log. You can upload stuff like this to dropbox or other "nopaste" sites.

The drive surface seems okay, because it was "threshold value" of 10 in (197). It has zero reallocation events.
But it has high GSense count, means it was dropped while in operation, high read error rate (1) - which means nothing by alone - provided this errors are corrected by ECC logic, BUT ECC logic "sleeps" because there is high (187) Reported Uncorrect.

Either the drive experienced very strong physical damage, so strong that it can't remap the sectors linearly. This would explain why reallocated sectors/event is strangely zero.
Or its cable/connections are bad. Try getting different cable, checking contacts, connecting to other SATA port.

Its not regular that drive does not increase reallocated sector/event counts.
Its as if it encounters some problematic zone on surface, but can't go past it at all.

I had situation, when damaged IDE cable caused "PLEXTOR" CD drive to called itself as "LEXDOB"; but never something like this.

As said, after checking all the cables, backup all data from this drive and try to low-format it using vendor utility. Then start a long test, perhaps few times. It must end without errors. All this takes a lot of time, so its best done as background task or on some low-energy HTPC/laptop. My bet is that the drive is trashed, unfortunately.

I don't think that drives are supposed to remap broken sectors until they are being written to, otherwise the original contents would be silently lost and any data they are a part of silently corrupted,

Well... A month ago I open my laptop because I was formatting my PS3 HDD, and when I finish I didn't put the case on, but installed my laptop's HDD. I let it on a table corner, until I notice the HDD was hanging just from the cable! A thin cable. Maybe it get scrub there...

Hmmm, so, to discard that the cable is the problem, I must install the HDD to a desktop machine? For how many time?

Also, I already try to Low Level Format the drive with a Samsung util, and ir checked the disk first, to say later (4 hours later) that the drive is OK and it does not need an LL Format...

Hard drive damage is really a terrible thing, trying to repair a damaged hard drive before you are completely desperate. Or try to recover the data on your hard drive.