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DrazenCro: Just wondering what to do now, let me check what I have and what I can do, and after some tests I will be back after a day or two. :)
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Lin545: But the DMA CRC errors hint that:
- the cable (replace),
- the sata pins (clean with rubber gum for pencil) or
- the controller to which the cable or the drive are attached (attach to different port)
could be faulty/need attention, in this order.
I apologize if my reply sounded like I wont do the things you suggested.

I was mostly wondering do I have a resources to do that.

I was able to enable/power on my previous PC case, sata pins cleaned, "new" cable, psu, motherboard etc., DMA CRC value is still the same, though no matter how many times I've power on my PC boot is successful every time now.

At least for now, still testing.

Oh, and on your pic is Gsmart control :)
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rtcvb32: ... could fry the hardware with too high ampage/voltage...
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DrazenCro: Already experienced that - even had proper reliable PSU, and since then I'm without proper gaming PC...long story.
I think I can do that.
I'm not an electrician or designer, but electronics are designed (or suppose to be) to allow a 10% leeway under/over while still functioning properly.
EDITED...

So about my HDD, is it going to die or what, I mean I don't mind it I'm just curious, backup is done, and according to Gsmart Control, raw read value and two others indicates a pre-failure, plus that DMA CRC error count.
Post edited September 01, 2020 by DrazenCro
An actual HDD? Like with a mechanical rotating platter, with ball bearings and motors and lubricants and vibration and head crashes? How quaint. ^_^

Seriously though. You should see this as a sign from the universe saying ‘get an SSD’.
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DrazenCro: Oh, and on your pic is Gsmart control :)
That's correct, the SMART values once set are permanent (except "current" fields, like current temperature). The DMA CRC points to the data io errors corrected by the checksum. In your case, keep an eye that it doesn't grow. If changing cable fixed the problem, then the problem was a defective cable. In my experience, I encountered similar problem once.

Only RAW column has a meaning, all other can be ignored. I can recommend to periodically check the RAW value of the fields "current pending sector", "offline uncorrectable", "current event count" and "restart attempts" - they indicate drive failing uncorrectable surface damage or motor damage.

Yes, you are right, I am using gsmartcontrol :)
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DrazenCro: So about my HDD, is it going to die or what, I mean I don't mind it I'm just curious, backup is done, and according to Gsmart Control, raw read value and two others indicates a pre-failure, plus that DMA CRC error count.
Your drive is fine, it just received a suspiciously large amount of data io errors, which it corrected. Pre-failure field is irrelevant, its just a hint - not a real value, - only RAW matters and is actual value.
Post edited August 30, 2020 by Lin545
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borisburke: snip
Good one. :)

And you are ok with 12 years old PC? I should get new PC but it is just I have some other things to do, and maybe I would like to wait to see what will be with rtx 3xxx series, maybe prices will drop a little bit for older gpus.
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Lin545: snip
Previous PC has other problems - but I didn't use it for a while so I didn't had a clue anymore why it is out and gathering dust, so I wasn't able to completely test my HDD - though no error was available, so I had to return drive to my current PC and message is still available on this one, again it is random.

Will keep any eye on those values.

Thank You
Post edited August 30, 2020 by DrazenCro
My advice is never get 'new' tech. Aside from early adopter syndrome, new tech is always overpriced to start with and takes a year or so to settle down. Best bang-for-buck is usually 12-24 month old. My normal approach is to first look up what was the best rated example from last years WHICH?, and go from there.

Even if you change nothing but your boot drive, can't recommend an SSD enough. You'll be surprised how much quicker everything is.
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DrazenCro: e.g. my current electrical cost during the winter in flat with very good electricity is ~100€ where in those buildings was ~200-250€ because of bad/old wiring method, whatever you want to call it. There is a large amount of old buildings dating around 1950s, something like that with old wiring methods, it was cheap method I guess at that time, don't know.
When you mostly run lights and large appliances ilke fridges/freezers that need a high voltage/amperage, the method isn't as important.

But as things get more refined, well it matters.